Tatreez (تطريز): Historical Threads
Tatreez is a form of Palestinian embroidery commonly known as cross stitch. It is also termed Fallahi tatreez, named after the embroider and derived from the word "Fallah" meaning farmer or village worker.
Tatreez has deep historical roots in Palestine and holds a significant place as one of the most popular forms of Palestinian embroidery. This craft has evolved into a visual identifier and symbol for Palestine, serving as a language of resilience.
A Historical Glimpse into Palestinian Tatreez
Tatreez extends beyond a mere stitching technique; it is an integral aspect of a Palestinian woman's life. Passed down through generations, learning Tatreez nurtures a cultural identity and connection to their Palestinian heritage. Through each careful stitch, young girls absorb the stories and motifs that make up tatreez, ensuring that the legacy of Tatreez survives.
Tatreez has proven to stand resilient against external pressures, persisting as an integral component of Palestinian culture. The following is a brief historical overview that provides insights into Palestinian tatreez before and after the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948.
For additional information on the history of Palestinian embroidery, we recommend exploring the sources provided at the conclusion of this post.
Pre-1948
Palestinian embroidery was influenced in the periods shaped by the Ottoman Empire (1516-1918) and the British mandate (1918-1948). The British mandate era, marked by an influx of European foreigners, brought with it a wave of misrepresentations through books, photographs, and drawings. Regrettably, these depictions portrayed Palestinians inaccurately. Palestinians were portrayed as nomadic bedouins devoid of a connection to their land—inaccurately depicted as barren and in need of modernization.
Contrary to these misconceptions, Palestine thrived as a diverse nation, with residents from various regions, including town dwellers, villagers, and bedouins. Palestinian textiles played a pivotal role in regional trade networks; for instance, Al-Majdal, situated north of Gaza, emerged as the primary weaving center, producing fabrics for the entire region. Regions also imported various fabrics including linen from Egypt and silk from Syria through the Nablus business centers
Al-Majdal Weaving Centre
Library of Congress
Different Palestinian regions were recognized for their exquisite embroidery, with the Ramallah region hosting the Quakers' Friends School specializing in teaching this craft. Bethlehem (Beit Lahem), known as the "Paris of Palestinian fashion," not only had weaving centers but also for its beautiful couching techniques. Jaffa, particularly Beit Dajan, stood out as a significant fashion center, notably renowned for the iconic "Beit Dajan Dress". Before the events of 1948, various Palestinian regions displayed intricate craftsmanship and economic significance in a thriving textile industry.
Intricate Couching on Late 19th Century Bethlehem Thobe
© The Trustees of the British Museum As1967,02.11
The Distinctive Language of Tatreez
Palestinian tatreez, characterized by its diverse motifs and styles, served as a distinctive identifier for Palestinian women, reflecting their regional affiliations and social standing. These intricate styles passed down from mothers to daughters, were traditionally exclusive to specific regions, while other motifs were used throughout Palestine. Several influences impacted these designs and styles, such as the introduction of European designs and the interactions between different villages. Palestinian tatreez designs were continuously evolving over centuries, never remaining stagnant.
Back of Ramallah Thobe
© The Trustees of the British Museum As1981,23.3
Post-1948
The year 1948 marked the establishment of the State of Israel, resulting in the expulsion of over 700,000 Palestinians from their homes by Zionist militias during the Nakba, or "Catastrophe." This period saw the temporary suspension of tatreez practice, as women, thrust into the role of supporting their families, had to prioritize immediate needs. Israeli forces demolished weaving centers and displaced residents to refugee camps. Consequently, a generation of women grew up without learning tatreez, and the weaving practices failed to be passed down, contributing to its gradual decline over time.
In the 1960s, tatreez returned but was altered by economic constraints. The craft underwent simplification, and machine-made embroidery was introduced. Tatreez evolved into a potent means of expressing the Palestinian experience and resistance to occupation. Women's organizations and cooperatives established centers to produce and market embroidered articles, simultaneously preserving the craft and economically empowering Palestinian women. What was once confined to villages, Palestinian tatreez became a means for women to adapt to changing times and contribute to their family income.
Following the Six-Day War in 1967, additional Palestinian refugees emerged as Israel captured the remaining Palestinian territories. Palestinian diaspora spread across regions, including the West Bank, Gaza, Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, and beyond. In refugee camps, tatreez evolved into a universal symbol of Palestinian identity, surpassing regional limitations. Camp dresses, notably the Six Branch dress, represented all of Palestine with diverse designs.
Six Branch Dress
© The Trustees of the British Museum As1997,25.1
The year 1987 marked the onset of the first Intifada, an uprising against Israel's occupation. During this period, the Palestinian flag became illegal, and its representation was confiscated. Palestinian women incorporated the flag's colors and symbols into their tatreez work, transforming it into an essential expression of Palestinian identity and peaceful resistance.
Intifada Dress
Tiraz: Widad Kawar Home for Arab Dress
Today
Tatreez isn't confined to the past; it's very much alive and evolving today. With each stitch, embroiderers have the power to carry forward the legacy of Palestine. Whether you're just starting your journey or seeking to refine your skills, Tatreez Traditions offers a comprehensive guide. Embrace the rich tradition of Tatreez and join this thriving community to continue to make Tatreez a powerful symbol of Palestine.
